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YvesBeharSTBI_2019V-_冲浪板如何连结人类与大自然_-

Riding a wave is like suddenly gaining speed and gliding at the same time . 冲浪就像是突然加速, 同时开始滑行。
gliding:adj.滑行的;流畅的;滑顺的;v.滑翔;消逝;溜走;(glide的现在分词形式) at the same time:同时;另一方面;与此同时;
Like walking on water, like flying. 像在水上行走,像飞翔。
I think it's really about being one with a natural phenomenon . 我觉得就好像与自然合二为一。
phenomenon:n.现象;杰出的人;非凡的人(或事物);
[Small thing. Big idea.] 【小事物,大智慧】
The surfboard requires a lot of ergonomic thinking. 冲浪板需要许多人体工程学上的思考。
surfboard:n.冲浪板;vi.以冲浪板滑水; ergonomic:adj.人类环境改造学的;人类工程学的;
How do I stand on it? How do I not slip off? 我该怎么站?怎么站得稳?
slip:v.溜;下降;滑落;n.纸条;衬裙;
But at the same time, it really has to work in that fluid environment. 但同时, 它又得兼顾水上的环境。
fluid:adj.流动的;流畅的;不固定的;n.流体;液体;
It's really considered for the rider in some areas and for water and physics in others. 一个冲浪板得同时考量到 冲浪者的许多方面, 还有水流和物理学等等。
rider:n.骑手;附文;扶手;
A surfboard is made out of a core element which tends to be foam , which makes the board float, and the skin of the board is some kind of resin , epoxy , sometimes fiberglass . 冲浪板的主要组成部分是泡沫, 这使冲浪板可以浮起来, 冲浪板的表面是由树脂, 环氧基树脂,有时是 玻璃纤维组成的材质。
core:n.核心;要点;果心;[计]磁心;vt.挖...的核; element:n.元素;要素;原理;成分;自然环境; foam:n.泡沫;水沫;灭火泡沫;v.起泡沫;吐白沫;起着泡沫流动; resin:n.树脂;松香;vt.涂树脂;用树脂处理; epoxy:adj.环氧的;n.环氧基树脂;vt.用环氧树脂胶合; fiberglass:n.玻璃纤维;玻璃丝;
There often is also a stringer , a wood piece down the middle, which makes it stronger. 通常冲浪板还有一根纵梁, 也就是贯穿中央的木头, 能增强冲浪板的强度。
stringer:n.纵梁,纵桁;上弦匠;[地质]细脉;特约记者,特约通讯员;拉线人;
The rocker is the curvature of the board in the front. 板弧就是板头的弧度,
rocker:n.摇杆;摇的人;镰刀弯;套钩;摇轴; curvature:n.弯曲,[数]曲率;
That is important because that determines what kind of wave you will be able to take, how steep the wave is. 板弧很重要,因为它决定了 你可以冲什么样的海浪, 能冲多高的浪。
determines:v.查明;测定;准确算出;决定;裁决;安排;(determine的第三人称单数) steep:adj.陡峭的;不合理的;夸大的;急剧升降的;v.泡;浸;使…充满;n.峭壁;浸渍;
The tail affects performance . 板尾则影响冲浪的表现。
performance:n.性能;表现;业绩;表演;
Different tails will make the board react differently, so it's a lot about personal preference . 不同的板尾会让 冲浪板展现不同的性能, 所以这和个人偏好比较有关。
react:v.起反应;回应;(对食物等)有不良反应,过敏;起化学反应; personal:adj.个人的;身体的;亲自的;n.人事消息栏;人称代名词; preference:n.偏爱;爱好;喜爱;偏爱的事物;
Our understanding of surfing comes from when the Tahitians in 1200 AD brought it to Hawaii. 我们对于冲浪的了解, 可以追溯到公元 1200 年, 由大溪地人将冲浪带至夏威夷。
surfing:v.冲浪;进行冲浪运动;(互联网上)浏览;(surf的现在分词)
So when James Cook arrived around 1780, he was mesmerized by hundreds of people in the water, children, women, men, surfing naked . 所以当库克船长在西元 1780 年左右到达夏威夷时, 他被海面上数百人的景象迷住了, 男女老少都裸着冲浪。
mesmerized:v.施催眠术,迷住,迷惑(mesmerize的过去式);adj.着迷的; naked:adj.裸体的;无装饰的;无证据的;直率的;
Calvinist missionaries arrive and they're scandalized by it. 直到加尔文主义的基督教传教士抵达, 将之污名化,
missionaries:n.传教士;工作人员(missionary的复数); scandalized:vt.使震惊;诽谤;使愤慨;
It becomes an illegal activity. 冲浪因此成了违法活动。
illegal:adj.不合法的;非法的;n.非法移民;非法劳工;
It becomes counterculture . 变成一种亚文化。
counterculture:n.反主流文化(60和70年代美国青少年中盛行的一种思想);
The father of modern surfing is a Hawaiian named Duke Kahanamoku. 现代冲浪之父叫杜克 · 卡哈纳莫库 (Duke Kahanamoku)的夏威夷人。
Hawaiian:adj.夏威夷的;夏威夷语的;n.夏威夷人;夏威夷语; Duke:n.公爵,(公国的)君主;公爵(种)樱桃;
He is an extraordinary swimmer , wins gold at the Olympics in 1912. 他是一位非凡的游泳健将, 曾于 1912 年赢得奥运会金牌。
extraordinary:adj.非凡的;特别的;离奇的;临时的;特派的; swimmer:n.游泳者;
Goes around the world to show his swimming but brings surfboards and demonstrates surfing. 他走遍世界展示他的泳姿, 同时也将冲浪板展现于世人。
surfboards:n.冲浪板;vi.以冲浪板滑水; demonstrates:v.证明;证实;论证;说明;演示;(demonstrate的第三人称单数)
Imagine, people had never seen surfing before. 想象一下,大家从未见过冲浪运动。
Suddenly, some person from a faraway place is standing on water, riding on water. 但突然间,从远方来了一个人, 可以就这样站在水上划水。
faraway:adj.遥远的;恍惚的;
He comes back to Hawaii, and they start to make more boards. 他回到夏威夷, 从此当地人开始制作更多的冲浪板。
Pre-Second World War, you're still looking at big, heavy wood boards. 二战前, 冲浪板还是厚重巨大的木板。
Post-Second World War, new materials and new technologies become available, and those make the board lighter, more accessible , cheaper, but it continues to be a custom object, something that is made specifically for a person or for a certain spot. 二战后, 有了新材料和新科技, 因此冲浪板变得更轻, 更易携带,也更便宜, 但它仍然是一个定制物品, 一件为专人,或某个特定的冲浪点 所量身打造的物品。
technologies:n.技术;科技(technology的复数); accessible:adj.易接近的;可进入的;可理解的; specifically:adv.特别地;明确地;
It's a very symbiotic relationship between surfer and shaper . 冲浪手和冲浪板型设计师间 更像是共生的关系。
symbiotic:adj.[生态]共生的;共栖的; shaper:n.[电子]整形器,脉冲整形器;[机]牛头刨床;造型者;塑造者;
There's so many different criteria that affect the physics of how that surfboard is moving in water. 影响冲浪板在水中的 运动性能的 因素实在是太多了。
criteria:n.标准,条件(criterion的复数);
A longboard is typically used on smaller waves. 比如长板特别适合小浪。
longboard:n.冲浪板; typically:adv.代表性地;作为特色地;
The riding has a lot of style. 也有不同的冲浪姿势。
You can walk the board, put your toes over it, do a hang ten. 你可以在板上走交叉步, 脚趾超过板头,做一个板头驾乘。
toes:n.脚趾;足尖部;有…脚趾的;v.用脚尖走;(toe的第三人称单数和复数)
A shortboard will be faster. 短板则更快。
They're harder to ride, they sink under the body. 更难驾驭,浮力小。
Board design comes at the intersection between those physical factors , and really, how I want to put myself in the water. 板型设计就涉及到 这些不同的物理因素, 以及,我自己在水中 想要什么样的体验。
intersection:n.交叉;十字路口;交集;交叉点; physical:adj.[物]物理的;身体的;物质的;符合自然法则的;n.体格检查; factors:n.因素(factor的复数); v.做代理商;
It's an expression as much as it is a physical activity. 冲浪是一项体育运动, 也是一种自我表达。
expression:n.表现,表示,表达;
The draw may be because water is so elusive . 海水是如此令人难以捉摸, 也许这就是它吸引人的地方。
elusive:adj.难懂的;易忘的;逃避的;难捉摸的;
You can't fight it, you can't change it. 你没法对抗大海,也没法改变它。
The best I can do is recognize what it does. 唯一能做的就是去辨识它的动向,
recognize:v.认识;认出;辨别出;承认;意识到;
The surf may be big and getting bigger and surging while you're in the water. 一个浪可能越来越大, 当你在海上时,或许会突然汹涌。
surging:v.汹涌;使强烈地感到;急剧上升;激增;(surge的现在分词)
The elements are changing. 海面因素在时刻变化着,
elements:n.要素;基本部分;少量;一群;(element的复数)
The wind is coming up. 可能要起风了。
You have to be in symbiosis with the environment. 你必须与这些环境因素共生。
symbiosis:n.[生态]共生;合作关系;共栖;
You need to look and feel for everything that's happening around you. 你需要观察,感受 所有在你周边发生的事情。
And yet, it's so short. 然而,这个过程很短暂。
Five, eight, 15 seconds. 只有 5、8、15 秒。
It's fleeting , but you have to go back to it. 虽然转瞬即逝, 但大海依然呼唤你回来。
fleeting:adj.转瞬即逝的;短暂的;闪现的;