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SuzanneLee_2011U-_自己种衣服_
So as a fashion designer , 作为一名时装设计师
fashion designer:n.时装设计师;
I've always tended to think of materials something like this, or this, or maybe this. 我习惯于考虑用某些材料 比如这个 或者这种 或者这种
But then I met a biologist , and now I think of materials like this -- green tea, sugar, a few microbes and a little time. 但当我和一位生物学家谈过 现在我开始考虑这样的材料—— 绿茶,糖 一些细菌加上一点时间
biologist:n.生物学家; microbes:n.细菌,[微]微生物;微生物类(microbe的复数形式);
I'm essentially using a kombucha recipe , which is a symbiotic mix of bacteria , yeasts and other micro-organisms , which spin cellulose in a fermentation process . 我基本上用的是红茶菌配方 它是一个细菌,真菌 和其他一些微生物的共生混合物 在它们发酵时, 能纺出纤维素。
essentially:adv.本质上;本来; recipe:n.食谱;方法;诀窍;烹饪法; symbiotic:adj.[生态]共生的;共栖的; bacteria:n.[微]细菌; yeasts:n.[微]酵母(yeast复数);[微]酵母菌;v.发酵(yeast的三单形式); micro-organisms:微生物; spin:v.旋转;纺纱;吐丝;纺线;n.头晕;(快速)旋转;常用于英式英语;晕头转向; cellulose:n.纤维素;(植物的)细胞膜质; fermentation:n.发酵; process:v.处理;加工;列队行进;n.过程,进行;方法,adj.经过特殊加工(或处理)的;
Over time, these tiny threads form in the liquid into layers and produce a mat on the surface. 时间一长,这些纤细的纤维 能在液体中形成纤维层 最后在液体表面形成一块垫子
threads:n.线; v.穿(针); (thread的第三人称单数和复数) layers:n.层;表层;层次;阶层;v.把…分层堆放;(layer的第三人称单数和复数)
So we start by brewing the tea. 我们从煮茶开始
brewing:n.酿造(啤酒); v.酿制(啤酒); (brew的现在分词)
I brew up to about 30 liters of tea at a time, and then while it's still hot, add a couple of kilos of sugar. 我每次煮差不多三十公升的茶 当茶还热的时候,加入几公斤糖
liters:n.(计量)公升(容量单位)(liter的复数)
We stir this in until it's completely dissolved and then pour it into a growth bath. 我们搅拌糖直道它完全的溶解 然后把茶倒入一个生长池中
stir:v.搅拌;搅动;激发;搅和;n.搅拌;搅动;震动;搅和; dissolved:v.溶;使(固体)溶解;解除;终止;(dissolve的过去式和过去分词) pour:v.倒; n.流出; (已熔金属的)一次浇注量;
We need to check that the temperature has cooled to below 30 degrees C. 我们需要确认温度 降到摄氏三十度以下
And then we're ready to add the living organism. 接着加入活的微生物
And along with that, some acetic acid . 同时加入一些醋酸
acetic acid:n.醋酸;乙酸;
And once you get this process going, you can actually recycle your previous fermented liquid. 其实一旦你这个发酵工程 你就可以回收使用 从前发酵过的液体
recycle:v.回收利用;再利用; previous:adj.以前的;早先的;过早的;adv.在先;在…以前; fermented:v.(使)发酵;(ferment的过去分词和过去式)
We need to maintain an optimum temperature for the growth. 我们需要维持一个最适宜生长的温度
maintain:v.维持;保持;维修;保养;坚持(意见); optimum:adj.最适宜的;n.最佳效果;最适宜条件;
And I use a heat mat to sit the bath on and a thermostat to regulate it. 我在池子下面垫了一张电热毯, 再用一个恒温器来调节电热毯的温度
thermostat:n.恒温器;温度自动调节器 regulate:v.调节;控制;
And actually, in hot weather, I can just grow it outside. 其实,在天热的时候,我能在室外培养
So this is my mini fabric farm. 这就是我的迷你布料农场
fabric:n.织物;布料;(社会,机构等的)结构;
After about three days, the bubbles will appear on the surface of the liquid. 大约三天后 液体表面出现气泡
bubbles:n.泡; v.起泡; (bubble的第三人称单数和复数)
So this is telling us that the fermentation is in full swing . 这就是在告诉我们发酵过程已经全速运转了
in full swing:adv.活跃;蓬勃高涨;
And the bacteria are feeding on the sugar nutrients in the liquid. 液体中的糖分 给细菌生长的养分
nutrients:营养盐;[食品]营养素;
So they're spinning these tiny nano fibers of pure cellulose. 它们开始纺出极纤细的纳米纤维 是极纯的纤维素
spinning:n.纺纱(手艺):纺线v.(使)旋转:纺线:纺纱;(spin的现在分词) nano:n.纳;毫微; fibers:n.纤维(fiber的复数);
And they're sticking together, forming layers and giving us a sheet on the surface. 这些纤维互相粘合,形成纤维层 最终给我们在液体表面一大片纤维布
sheet:n.薄板;床单;纸张;报纸;v.覆盖;展开;给…铺床单;铺开;adj.片状的;
After about two to three weeks, we're looking at something which is about an inch in thickness . 大约两到三周后 我们能看到一英寸厚的纤维毯
thickness:n.厚度;层;浓度;含混不清;
So the bath on the left is after five days, and on the right, after 10. 左边的池子是发酵了五天的 右边的是十天后的
And this is a static culture. 这都是静态培养
static:adj.静止的; n.[物]静电(干扰);
You don't have to do anything to it; you just literally watch it grow. 你不需要做任何事 就看它长就好了
literally:adv.按字面:字面上:确实地:
It doesn't need light. 这也不需要光线
And when it's ready to harvest, you take it out of the bath and you wash it in cold, soapy water. 当是采收的时候,你把纤维毯从池子中拿出来 在冷的肥皂水里洗洗
take it out of:使…疲乏;向…报复;强行从…中拿走; soapy:adj.涂着肥皂的;含有肥皂的;似肥皂的;圆滑的;
At this point, it's really heavy. 这是纤维毯是很重的
It's over 90 percent water, so we need to let that evaporate . 九成都是水份 我们需要把水份蒸发出来
evaporate:vt.使…蒸发;使…脱水;使…消失;vi.蒸发,挥发;消失,失踪;
So I spread it out onto a wooden sheet. 所以我把纤维毯铺在一块木板上
wooden:adj.木制的;木头的;木头似的;死板的
Again, you can do that outside and just let it dry in the air. 同样地,你可以把它晾在户外 在空气中风干就好了
And as it's drying, it's compressing , so what you're left with, depending on the recipe, is something that's either like a really light-weight , transparent paper, or something which is much more like a flexible vegetable leather . 当纤维毯风干时,它会缩水 所以根据你用的配方,你可能得到 的结果或者是 非常轻的透明的纸张 或者是弹性十足的像植物皮一样的东西
compressing:n.压缩;v.压缩,压榨(compress的现在分词形式); light-weight:轻型;轻质; transparent:adj.透明的;显然的;坦率的;易懂的; flexible:adj.灵活的;柔韧的;易弯曲的; leather:n.皮革;皮革制品;v.用皮革包盖;抽打;adj.皮的;皮革制的;
And then you can either cut that out and sew it conventionally , or you can use the wet material to form it around a three-dimensional shape. 你可以用它剪裁 照惯例缝纫 或者用湿的材料 包在三维的物体外面塑形
sew:v.缝;缝制;缝补;做针线活; conventionally:adv.照惯例,照常套; three-dimensional:adj.三维的;立体的;真实的;
And as it evaporates , it will knit itself together, forming seams . 当材料风干的时候 它自己会粘连,缝合在一起。
evaporates:n.蒸发岩;蒸发盐;v.蒸发;消失;衰退(evaporate的三单形式); knit:v.编织;针织;机织;(使)紧密结合;n.针织衫;编织的衣服; seams:n.缝合线(seam的复数);缝合处;v.焊接(seam的三单形式);用线缝接;
So the color in this jacket is coming purely from green tea. 这件夹克的颜色就是绿茶的颜色
purely:adv.完全;仅仅;
I guess it also looks a little bit like human skin, which intrigues me. 我觉得它看起来有点像人皮做的 让我很有兴趣
intrigues:n.阴谋;诡计;复杂的事;私通;vt.用诡计取得;激起...的兴趣;vi.私通;密谋;
Since it's organic , 既然这是有机材料
organic:adj.有机的;不使用化肥的;绿色的;有机物的;n.分子有机体;
I'm really keen to try and minimize the addition of any chemicals . 我试图少加化学物质进来
keen:adj.敏锐的,敏捷的;渴望的;强烈的;热心的;锐利的;n.痛哭,挽歌; minimize:v.使减少到最低限度;降低;贬低;使显得不重要; addition:n.添加;[数]加法;增加物; chemicals:n.化学制品;化学品;(chemical的复数)
I can make it change color without using dye by a process of iron oxidation . 我能不通过燃料而改变它的颜色 而是用铁氧化的方式。
dye:n.染料;染液;v.染;给…染色; oxidation:n.[化学]氧化;
Using fruit and vegetable staining , create organic patterning. 或者用水果和蔬菜的色素 做出有机图样
staining:v.(被)玷污;留下污渍;给…染色(或着色);败坏(名声);(stain的现在分词)
And using indigo , make it anti-microbial . 或者使用靛蓝 使它抗菌
indigo:n.靛蓝,靛蓝染料;靛蓝色;槐蓝属植物;adj.靛蓝色的; anti-microbial:n.抗菌;
And in fact, cotton would take up to 18 dips in indigo to achieve a color this dark. 事实上,棉织品 要在靛蓝中染十八次 才能染成这个颜色
dips:v.浸;(使)下降;把(汽车前灯的)远光调为近光;(dip的第三人称单数)
And because of the super-absorbency of this kind of cellulose, it just takes one, and a really short one at that. 因为这个纤维素的材料吸收力特强 只要快速染一次就够了
What I can't yet do is make it water-resistant . 我没做成功的是让它防水
water-resistant:adj.抗水的;
So if I was to walk outside in the rain wearing this dress today, 如果我现在在雨里走走 穿今天的这件夹克
I would immediately start to absorb huge amounts of water. 我会马上开始吸水 很多很多水份
absorb:v.吸收;使并入;吞并;同化;理解;吸收;耗费;承受;
The dress would get really heavy, and eventually the seams would probably fall apart -- leaving me feeling rather naked . 这件衣服会变得很重 最后全开线—— 让我觉得露太多
eventually:adv.最后,终于; fall apart:崩溃;土崩瓦解;破碎; naked:adj.裸体的;无装饰的;无证据的;直率的;
Possibly a good performance piece, but definitely not ideal for everyday wear. 它有很好的表演效果 但是绝对不适合日常的衣着。
performance:n.性能;表现;业绩;表演; definitely:adv.清楚地,当然;明确地,肯定地;
What I'm looking for is a way to give the material the qualities that I need. 我现在在找一个办法 让这个材料 有我想要的质量
So what I want to do is say to a future bug , "Spin me a thread. 我想和未来的细菌说 ”给我一条线
bug:n.臭虫,小虫;故障;窃听器;v.烦扰,打扰;装窃听器;
Align it in this direction. 让它和我一起解决这些问题。
Align:vt.使结盟;使成一行;匹配;vi.排列;排成一行;
Make it hydrophobic . 让它防水
hydrophobic:adj.狂犬病的;恐水病的;患恐水病的;不易被水沾湿的;
And while you're at it, just form it around this 3D shape." 同时 让它绕着这个三维物体塑形”
Bacterial cellulose is actually already being used for wound healing , and possibly in the future for biocompatible blood vessels , possibly even replacement bone tissue . 细菌纤维素已经被用在愈合伤口上 在未来很可能 会被用来做成生物兼容性的血管组织 可能还会被用来替换骨组织
Bacterial:adj.[微]细菌的; wound:n.创伤,伤口;v.使受伤;受伤,伤害; healing:n.康复; adj.痊愈中的; v.(使)康复,复原; (heal的现在分词) biocompatible:adj.生物适合的;不会引起排斥的; vessels:n.血管(vessel的复数);船舶;容器; replacement:n.替换;更换;替代品;接替者; tissue:n.纸巾,手巾纸;(人、动植物细胞的)组织;
But with synthetic biology , we can actually imagine engineering this bacterium to produce something that gives us the quality, quantity and shape of material that we desire. 融合合成生物学 我们能想象设计这些细菌 来做出我们需要的 有品质, 有重量,有形状 的材料
synthetic:adj.综合的;合成的,人造的;n.合成物; biology:n.(一个地区全部的)生物;生物学; engineering:n.工程;工程学;v.密谋策划;设计制造;改变…的基因;(engineer的现在分词) bacterium:n.[微]细菌;杆菌属; quantity:n.量;数量;大量;数额;
Obviously, as a designer, that's really exciting. 显然,作为一名设计师,这是很令人兴奋的
Because then I start to think, wow, we could actually imagine growing consumable products. 因为我开始想,哇 我们可以想象 种出可消耗的产品
consumable:n.消费品;消耗品;adj.可消耗的;可消费的;
What excites me about using microbes is their efficiency . 微生物学让我兴奋的是 它的高效率
efficiency:n.效率;效能;功效;
So we only grow what we need. 我们能只种我们需要的
There's no waste. 那就不会有浪费
And in fact, we could make it from a waste stream -- so for example, waste sugar stream from a food processing plant. 事实上,我们可以用废水来种衣服—— 比如说 废的糖水 从食物加工场出来的
processing:v.加工;处理;审核;数据处理;v.列队行进;缓缓前进;(process的现在分词)
Finally , at the end of use, we could biodegrade it naturally along with your vegetable peelings . 最后,在用完后,我们还可以自然地把它们降解 就和你的瓜果菜皮一起
Finally:adv.终于;最终;(用于列举)最后;彻底地; biodegrade:vt.生物递降分解;vi.进行生物降解; naturally:adv.自然地;自然而然地;轻而易举;天生地;大方地; peelings:n.[木]剥皮,去皮;剥下的皮;v.脱皮;剥落(peel的ing形式);
What I'm not suggesting is that microbial cellulose is going to be a replacement for cotton, leather or other textile materials. 我并不是说要用微生物的纤维素 将能够代替 棉花,皮革或者其他的纺织品
textile:n.纺织品;纺织业;
But I do think it could be quite a smart and sustainable addition to our increasingly precious natural resources . 但我相信对现今日趋珍贵的自然资源来说 它会是一个非常巧妙和持续性的辅助物
sustainable:adj.可以忍受的;足可支撑的;养得起的;可持续的; increasingly:adv.越来越多地;渐增地; precious:adj.宝贵的;珍贵的;矫揉造作的; resources:n.[计][环境]资源; v.向…提供资金(resource的第三人称单数);
Ultimately , maybe it won't even be fashion where we see these microbes have their impact . 最终,可能我们不会在时尚界 看到这些微生物大展宏图
Ultimately:adv.最终;最后;归根结底;终究; impact:n.影响;效果;碰撞;冲击力;v.挤入,压紧;撞击;对…产生影响;
We could, for example, imagine growing a lamp , a chair, a car or maybe even a house. 我们可能,比如说,想象用它 来种一盏灯,种一把椅子 一辆车,或者是一幢房子
lamp:n.灯;台灯;(理疗用的)发热灯;
So I guess what my question to you is: in the future, what would you choose to grow? 我想我给大家的问题是 未来,你会选择种什么？
Thank you very much. 谢谢大家
(Applause) （掌声）
Bruno Giussani: Suzanne, just quickly, what you're wearing is not random . (Suzanne Lee: No.) 布鲁诺 吉萨尼:苏珊,快速问一下 你今天不是随便穿的 （苏珊:不是）
random:adj.[数]随机的;任意的;胡乱的;n.随意;adv.胡乱地;
This is one of the jackets you grew? 这就是你种出来的夹克？
SL: Yes, it is. 苏珊:是的,这就是
It's probably -- part of the project's still in process, because this one is actually biodegrading in front of your eyes. 这也许--是这项目探索中的一部分, 因为这件织品 其实在我们面前正在降解
(Laughter) （笑声）
It's absorbing my sweat, and it's feeding on it. 它在吸收我的汗,从中获得养分
absorbing:adj.引人入胜的;精彩的;v.吸收;吞并;同化;理解;(absorb的现在分词)
BG: Okay, so we'll let you go and save it, and rescue it. 布鲁诺:好好好,我们这就让你下台,你好救回这件夹克
rescue:n.救援;抢救;营救;获救;v.抢救;营救;援救;
Suzanne Lee. (SL: Thank you.) 苏珊李 （苏珊:谢谢）
(Applause) （掌声）