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JohannaBlakley_2010X-_从时装的自由文化里学到的_
I heard this amazing story about Miuccia Prada . 我听过这个关于缪西娅·普拉达的神奇故事。
Prada:n.普拉达(奢侈品品牌);
She's an Italian fashion designer . 她是一个意大利服装设计师
fashion designer:n.时装设计师;
She goes to this vintage store in Paris with a friend of hers. 她和她的一个朋友, 去巴黎的一个古董商店。
vintage:n.葡萄收获期; adj.古老的; v.采葡萄; vi.采葡萄;
She's rooting around, she finds this one jacket by Balenciaga -- she loves it. 她正在到处翻找的时候,找到了这件巴伦夏家设计的外套。 她很喜欢它。
Balenciaga:n.[商]巴黎世家;
She's turning it inside out. 她把着见外套翻过来。
She's looking at the seams . She's looking at the construction . 她当时看着衣服的接缝,还有这件外套的构造。
seams:n.缝合线(seam的复数);缝合处;v.焊接(seam的三单形式);用线缝接; construction:n.建设;建筑物;解释;造句;
Her friend says, "Buy it already." 她的朋友说“快点买吧。”
She said, "I'll buy it, but I'm also going to replicate it." 她说:“我会买的,但是我还要复制它。”
replicate:vt.复制; vi.重复; adj.复制的; n.复制品;
Now, the academics in this audience may think, "Well, that sounds like plagiarism ." 现在,在这里的学者可能会想, “这样就像是抄袭。”
academics:n.学术水平;学术知识;专业学者; plagiarism:n.剽窃;剽窃物;
But to a fashionista , what it really is is a sign of Prada's genius : that she can root through the history of fashion and pick the one jacket that doesn't need to be changed by one iota , and to be current and to be now. 但是,对于一个服装设计师来说,它其实是 是谱拉达超凡想象力的标志。 那就是她能够找到时装的历史 还能够让这件 不用做一点改变的外套, 成为当今的一种流行。
fashionista:n.时尚达人; genius:n.天才;天资;才能,本领; iota:n.极微小;希腊语的第九个字母;
You might also be asking whether it's possible that this is illegal for her to do this. 你也许还想问她这样做是不是 不合法
illegal:adj.不合法的;非法的;n.非法移民;非法劳工;
Well, it turns out that it's actually not illegal. 但这事实上被证明是合法的
In the fashion industry, there's very little intellectual property protection. 在时装工业上,没有 知识产权的保护。
intellectual property:知识产权;
They have trademark protection, but no copyright protection and no patent protection to speak of. 他们有商标的保护, 但没有版权保护, 而且没有专利保护可言。
trademark:n.商标;标志;v.给…标上商标;认出某人的典型特征; copyright:n.版权;著作权;adj.受版权保护的;未经准许不得复制的;v.获得…的版权; patent:vt.授予专利; adj.专利的; n.专利权;
All they have, really, is trademark protection, and so it means that anybody could copy any garment on any person in this room and sell it as their own design. 他们所拥有的只有商标保护。 所以,也就是说每一个人 能够复制这里任何人穿的 任何服装 然后作为他们自己的设计而买出去。
garment:n.衣服,服装;外表,外观;vt.给…穿衣服;
The only thing that they can't copy is the actual trademark label within that piece of apparel . 只有一样东西他们不能复制 那就是那件服装里面的 实际商标标志
label:n.标签;标记;谓;唱片公司;v.贴标签于;用标签标明; apparel:n.服装;衣服;vt.给…穿衣;
That's one reason that you see logos splattered all over these products. 这就是为什么我们看到徽标 散落在所有这些产品上。
logos:n.理念; splattered:v.把(水等)泼洒在…上;淋湿;飞溅(splatter的过去分词和过去式)
It's because it's a lot harder for knock-off artists to knock off these designs because they can't knock off the logo. 那是因为对于翻版的艺术家来说 翻版那些设计很难 因为他们不能翻版徽标
knock-off:v.停止;敲掉;
But if you go to Santee Alley , yeah. 但是如果你去桑蒂弄,对
Alley:n.小巷;小路;小径;
(Laughter) Well, yeah. 啊,对。
Canal Street, I know. 运河街,我知道。
And sometimes these are fun, right? 有时候那些都很有趣,好。
Now, the reason for this, the reason that the fashion industry doesn't have any copyright protection is because the courts decided long ago that apparel is too utilitarian to qualify for copyright protection. 现在,基于这个原因,这个时装工业 没有产权保护的原因是 是因为法院很久以前已经决定 服装太以功利为目的而 不能取得产权保护的资格。
utilitarian:adj.功利的;功利主义的;实利的;n.功利主义者; qualify for:合格;有…的资格;
They didn't want a handful of designers owning the seminal building blocks of our clothing. 他们不想让少数的设计师 拥有我们的服饰的开创性积木
seminal:adj.种子的;精液的;生殖的; building blocks:(儿童玩的)积木;建筑砌块;堆积木;建筑砖块;基石;
And then everybody else would have to license this cuff or this sleeve because Joe Blow owns it. 然后,其他人将必须取得这个袖子或这个袖口的许可 因为Joe Blow 拥有它。
license:v.许可;批准; cuff:n.袖口,裤子翻边; vt.给…上袖口; vi.殴斗,拳击; sleeve:n.袖子;套管;有…袖子的;唱片套;v.给…装袖子;
But too utilitarian? I mean is that the way you think of fashion? 但是太过于功利化？我指的是你如何看待时装？
This is Vivienne Westwood. No! 这是薇薇恩·韦斯特伍德,不
We think of it as maybe too silly, too unnecessary. 我们或许认为它太愚蠢了, 太没有必要
Now, those of you who are familiar with the logic behind copyright protection -- which is that without ownership, there is no incentive to innovate -- might be really surprised 现在,你们中间对没有版权所有,也没有创新动力的 版权保护背后的 逻辑很熟悉的人 可能也真的会对
familiar:adj.熟悉的;常见的;亲近的;n.常客;密友; logic:n.逻辑;逻辑学;逻辑性;adj.逻辑的; incentive:n.动机;刺激;adj.激励的;刺激的; innovate:vi.创新;改革;革新;vt.改变;创立;创始;引人;
by both the critical success of the fashion industry and the economic success of this industry. 时装工业至关重要的成功 和这个产业的经济上的成功而惊奇。
critical:adj.鉴定的;[核]临界的;批评的,爱挑剔的;危险的;决定性的;评论的; economic:adj.经济的,经济上的;经济学的;
What I'm going to argue today is that because there's no copyright protection in the fashion industry, fashion designers have actually been able to elevate utilitarian design, things to cover our naked bodies, into something that we consider art. 今天,令我生气的是 在时装业, 没有版权保护。 时装设计师们事实上有能力使 功利化的设计, 遮盖我们裸露的身体的东西, 升华为艺术。
elevate:vt.提升;举起;振奋情绪等;提升…的职位; naked:adj.裸体的;无装饰的;无证据的;直率的;
Because there's no copyright protection in this industry, there's a very open and creative ecology of creativity. 因为在这个行业 没有版权保护, 所以有非常开放和创造的 创造生态。
creative:adj.创造性的;
Unlike their creative brothers and sisters, who are sculptors or photographers or filmmakers or musicians, fashion designers can sample from all their peers' designs. 与那些和他们一样搞创造的, 雕刻家或摄影师 或电影制作家,或音乐家们不同 时装设计师能够以 他们同行人的所有设计为样本。
sculptors:n.雕刻家; filmmakers:n.制片人(filmmaker的复数);
They can take any element from any garment from the history of fashion and incorporate it into their own design. 他们可以从任何时装历史上的衣服里, 取得任何东西 然后把它们容入到他们自己的设计里。
element:n.元素;要素;原理;成分;自然环境; incorporate:vt.包含,吸收; vi.合并; adj.合并的;
They're also notorious for riffing off of the zeitgeist . 他们也因为重复时代思潮而声名狼籍。
notorious:adj.声名狼藉的,臭名昭著的; riffing:abbr.雷达识别装置(RadarIdentificationSet); zeitgeist:n.时代思潮,时代精神;
And here, I suspect , they were influenced by the costumes in Avatar . 在这里,我怀疑, 他们是受到阿凡达里面的服饰的影响,
suspect:n.犯罪嫌疑人;v.怀疑;不信任;adj.可疑的; influenced:v.影响;对…起作用;支配;左右;(influence的过去分词和过去式) costumes:n.服装,装束; v.给(某人)穿上特殊服装; (costume的第三人称单数和复数) Avatar:n.电影《阿凡达》;
Maybe just a little. 也许只有一点.
Can't copyright a costume either. 服饰也不能得到版权认可.
Now, fashion designers have the broadest palette imaginable in this creative industry. 现在,服装设计师让 最广泛的调色板 在这个产业里有想象的空间.
palette:n.调色板;颜料; imaginable:adj.可能的;可想像的;
This wedding dress here is actually made of sporks , and this dress is actually made of aluminum . 这件婚礼服 事实上是由刀和叉做成的. 这件衣服事实上是用铝做的.
wedding dress:n.婚纱; sporks:n.叉勺; aluminum:n.铝;
I've heard this dress actually sort of sounds like wind chimes as they walk through. 我听说当你走起来 这件衣服听起来像风铃.
wind chimes:n.风铃;风铎;
So, one of the magical side effects of having a culture of copying, which is really what it is, is the establishment of trends . 因此复制一种文化的 神秘副作用是 它其实是 是制定的倾向.
establishment:n.大型组织;企业;旅馆;权威人士;建立; trends:n.趋势;倾向;动态;动向;(trend的第三人称单数和复数)
People think this is a magical thing. How does it happen? 人们认为这是一件神秘的事情,它是如何发生的呢?
Well, it's because it's legal for people to copy one another. 这个嘛,是因为人们复制别人的东西是合法的
Some people believe that there are a few people at the top of the fashion food chain who sort of dictate to us what we're all going to wear, but if you talk to any designer at any level, including these high-end designers, they always say their main inspiration comes from the street: where people like you and me remix and match our own fashion looks. 有些人相信 有一少部分人在时装食物链的顶端 这些人从某种程度上来说决定我们将穿什么. 但是如果你和任何水平上的任何设计师谈话, 包括那些顶级的设计师, 他们常常说 他们的灵感来自于大街 在大街上和你和我一样的人们重新组合并搭配 我们自己的时装外表,
food chain:n.食物链; dictate:v.决定;口述;支配;强行规定;n.规定;命令; high-end:adj.高端的;高档的; remix:vt.使再混合;再搅拌;重新合成(乐曲等);n.混录版歌曲;
And that's where they really get a lot of their creative inspiration, so it's both a top-down and a bottom-up kind of industry. 而那儿正是他们真正得到很多的 创作灵感. 所以它既是一种自下而上的又是一种自上而下的行业.
top-down:adj.[计]自顶向下;组织管理严密的; bottom-up:adj.[计]自底向上的;从细节到总体的;
Now, the fast fashion giants have probably benefited the most from the lack of copyright protection in the fashion industry. 现在,快速的时装巨头可能已经 因为时装行业没有版权保护 而获得最大的利益.
giants:n.巨人;大汉;巨兽;巨树;(giant的复数)
They are notorious for knocking off high-end designs and selling them at very low prices. 他们因为抄袭高级设计而声名狼籍 并以低价出售
And they've been faced with a lot of lawsuits , but those lawsuits are usually not won by fashion designers. 他们还面临了很多诉讼, 但是那些时装设计师们通常都不能赢得诉讼.
lawsuits:n.诉讼,法律诉讼;控诉(lawsuit的复数形式);
The courts have said over and over again , "You don't need any more intellectual property protection." 法院已经反复的申明, 你们不再需要 知识财产保护.
over and over again:adv.一再地;反复不断地;
When you look at copies like this, you wonder: How do the luxury high-end brands remain in business? 当你们看着这样的复制品的时候, 你就想知道,那些豪华的高级品牌如何 在商业里生存?
luxury:n.奢侈,奢华;奢侈品;享受;adj.奢侈的; brands:n.品牌;烙印(brand的复数);v.加商标于;铭刻于(brand的第三人称单数);
If you can get it for 200 bucks , why pay a thousand? 如果你可以话200美圆买到,那么你为什么还要话1000美圆
bucks:n.元;雄鹿;(buck的复数)
Well, that's one reason we had a conference here at USC a few years ago. 那就是为什么几年前我们曾在南加洲大学举行了会议.
conference:n.会议;研讨会;商讨会;体育协会(或联合会)
We invited Tom Ford to come -- the conference was called, "Ready to Share: 我们邀请了Tom Ford。 那个会议叫“准备分享:
Ford:n.福特[姓氏];浅滩;v.涉(水);渡河;津渡;
Fashion and the Ownership of Creativity" -- and we asked him exactly this question. 时装和创造的所有权” 而且我们问了他这个问题。
Here's what he had to say. 这就是他所要说的。
He had just come off a successful stint as the lead designer at Gucci , in case you didn't know. 他刚刚在古奇以首席设计师的身份成功地完成了短期工作, 在你不知道的情况下。
stint:n.节约;定额,定量;v.节省;限制;紧缩,节省; Gucci:n.古琦(品牌名);
Tom Ford: And we found after much research that -- actually not much research, quite simple research -- that the counterfeit customer was not our customer. Tom Ford:我们发现进行很多研究后, 事实上也不是很多研究,很简单的研究, 那些购买仿造的顾客不是我们的顾客
counterfeit:vt.伪造,仿造; vi.仿造; n.赝品; adj.假冒的,伪造的;
Johanna Blakley: Imagine that. Johanna Blakley:想象一下
The people on Santee Alley are not the ones who shop at Gucci. 在桑蒂弄的人们 不会在古奇购物。
(Laughter) （笑)
This is a very different demographic . 这是一个非常难的人口统计学.
demographic:adj.人口统计学的;人口学的;
And, you know, a knock-off is never the same as an original high-end design, at least in terms of the materials; they're always made of cheaper materials. 还有,你知道的,一个翻版是永远不会和 原版的高级设计一样的. 至少在材料方面,它们通常是用廉价的材料而做成的.
original:n.原件;原作;原物;原型;adj.原始的;最初的;独创的;新颖的;
But even sometimes a cheaper version can actually have some charming aspects , can breathe a little extra life into a dying trend. 但是,有时候一个便宜的版本 事实上也能够有一些迷人方面, 能够向一个奄奄一息的潮流里注入额外的生命.
charming:adj.令人着迷的;吸引人的;v.吸引;迷住;控制,保护;(charm的现在分词) aspects:n.方面;相位;面貌(aspect的复数); extra:adj.额外的:n.额外的事物:adv.额外:另外:
There's lots of virtues of copying. 拷贝有很多好的一面.
virtues:n.优点,贞操;美德;
One that a lot of cultural critics have pointed to is that we now have a much broader palette of design choices to choose from than we ever have before, and this is mainly because of the fast fashion industry, actually. 很多文化批判家已经指出的一个是 我们现在拥有 一个比我们以前拥有的更广泛的 可供选择的调色版. 这实际上主要是因为这个快速的时尚行业.
cultural:adj.与文化有关的;文化的;与艺术、文学、音乐等有关的; critics:n.评论家;批评者;吹毛求疵的人(critic的复数); mainly:adv.大多;大部分;主要地;首要地;
And this is a good thing. We need lots of options . 并且这是一件好事,我需要更多的选择.
options:n.选择; v.得到或获准进行选择; (option的三单形式)
Fashion, whether you like it or not, helps you project who you are to the world. 时尚,不管你喜不喜欢, 帮助你向世界展示你自己.
Because of fast fashion, global trends actually get established much more quickly than they used to. 因为快速时尚, 全球潮流事实上被确立的比过去更快.
global:adj.全球的;总体的;球形的; established:adj.已确立的;著名的;v.建立;创立;设立;(establish的过去分词和过去式)
And this, actually, is good news to trendsetters; they want trends to be set so that they can move product. 而这对潮流确立者来说实际上是好消息. 他们希望潮流被确立 这样他们能够移动产品.
For fashionistas , they want to stay ahead of the curve . 对于追求时尚的人来说, 他们想在曲线上保持领先的地位.
fashionistas:n.疯狂追求时髦与流行的人; curve:n.曲线;弯曲;曲面;弧线;v.(使)沿曲线移动;呈曲线形;
They don't want to be wearing what everybody else is wearing. 他们不想和其他人穿的一样.
And so, they want to move on to the next trend as soon as possible. 所以他们想尽快的 转移到下一个潮流。
as soon as:一…就;
I tell you, there is no rest for the fashionable . 我告诉你,时尚是不会休息的
fashionable:adj.流行的;时髦的;上流社会的;
Every season, these designers have to struggle to come up with the new fabulous idea that everybody's going to love. 每个季节,那些设计师必须为 想出令每个人都喜爱的好主意而奋斗
come up with:提出;想出;赶上; fabulous:adj.难以置信的;传说的,寓言中的;极好的;
And this, let me tell you, is very good for the bottom line . 还有这个,让我来告诉你吧 这对底层来说非常好.
the bottom line:底线;本质内容;最底线;
Now of course, there's a bunch of effects that this culture of copying has on the creative process . 现在,当然有一连串的影响 那就是拷贝文化 存在于创作的过程中.
a bunch of:一群;一束;一堆; process:v.处理;加工;列队行进;n.过程,进行;方法,adj.经过特殊加工(或处理)的;
And Stuart Weitzman is a very successful shoe designer. Stuart Weitzman 是一个非常成功的鞋子设计师.
Stuart:斯图亚特王室的;
He has complained a lot about people copying him, but in one interview I read, he said it has really forced him to up his game. 他抱怨人们拷贝他的设计. 但在我读到的一次采访中, 他说到,你知道的 ,这迫使他去提升他的游戏.
complained:v.抱怨;埋怨;发牢骚;(complain的过去分词和过去式) interview:n.接见,采访;面试,面谈;v.采访;接见;对…进行面谈;
He had to come up with new ideas, new things that would be hard to copy. 他必须想出新的主义, 想出不容易被拷贝的新东西.
He came up with this Bowden-wedge heel that has to be made out of steel or titanium; if you make it from some sort of cheaper material, it'll actually crack in two. 他想出了这个鲍登楔脚跟 这个必须用钢或钛来做. 如果你用一些便宜的材料制成, 它将会破裂成2半.
heel:n.脚后跟;足跟;卑鄙的家伙;v.给(鞋等)修理后跟;倾侧;倾斜 crack:v.使破裂;打开;变声;n.裂缝;声变;噼啪声;adj.最好的;高明的;
It forced him to be a little more innovative . (Music) 它迫使他变的更创新.
innovative:adj.革新的,创新的;
And that actually reminded me of jazz great, Charlie Parker. 而那实际上让我想起 爵士乐,伟大的查理帕克.
reminded:v.提醒;使想起;(remind的过去分词和过去式)
I don't know if you've heard this anecdote , but I have. 我不知道你是否听过这件轶事.但我听过了,
anecdote:n.轶事;奇闻;秘史;
He said that one of the reasons he invented bebop was that he was pretty sure that white musicians wouldn't be able to replicate the sound. (Laughter) 他说他发明比博普的一个原因 是他非常确定 白人音乐家会没有能力复制这种声音.
bebop:n.比波普爵士乐(爵士音乐的一种);
He wanted to make it too difficult to copy, and that's what fashion designers are doing all the time. 他想让它难到不能拷贝. 而那正是时尚设计师们一直在做的.
They're trying to put together a signature look, an aesthetic that reflects who they are. 他们试着将 一个签名放到一起.这是一个能够 反映他们是谁的美学.
put together:..放在一起;组合;装配; signature:n.署名;签名;信号; aesthetic:adj.美的;美学的;审美的,具有审美趣味的; reflects:v.反映;映出(影像);反射;表明,表达;(reflect的第三人称单数)
When people knock it off , everybody knows because they've put that look out on the runway , and it's a coherent aesthetic. 当人们抄袭的时候,每个人都知道 因为他们把那个签名的样子放到了跑道外面, 而且它是一个清楚易懂的美学.
knock it off:停止做;住口,别再讲下去了; look out on:面临; runway:n.跑道;河床;滑道; coherent:adj.连贯的,一致的;明了的;清晰的;凝聚性的;互相耦合的;粘在一起的;
I love these Gallianos. 我喜欢这些Gallianos
Okay, we'll move on. (Laughter) 好,我将继续前进.
This is not unlike the world of comedy . 这和喜剧世界不一样.
comedy:n.喜剧;喜剧性;有趣的事情;
I don't know if you know that jokes also can't be copyright protected. 我不知道你是不是知道笑话 也不能受到版权保护.
So when one-liners were really popular, everybody stole them from one another. 所以当一个衬垫很流行, 每个人就偷走他们彼此的.
one-liners:n.小笑话,俏皮话;
But now, we have a different kind of comic. 但是,现在我们有一种不同的喜剧演员.
They develop a persona , a signature style, much like fashion designers. 他们发展人格面具, 一种签名样式,很像时尚设计师.
persona:n.人物角色;伪装的外表;
And their jokes, much like the fashion designs by a fashion designer, really only work within that aesthetic. 而他们的笑话, 很像时尚设计师们的时装设计, 真的仅仅只在这样的审美关里.
If somebody steals a joke from Larry David, for instance , it's not as funny. 如果以有人盗取一个 Larry David 的笑话作为例子, 而不是作为取乐.
instance:n.实例;情况;建议;v.举...为例;
Now, the other thing that fashion designers have done to survive in this culture of copying is they've learned how to copy themselves. 现在时尚设计师已经做的另一件事是 为了在这种抄袭文化中生存 他们已经学会了如何拷贝他们自己.
They knock themselves off. 他们复制他们自己的东西.
They make deals with the fast fashion giants and they come up with a way to sell their product to a whole new demographic: the Santee Alley demographic. 他们与快速的时尚巨头做交易, 他们也想办法向一个全新的人口 销售他们的产品 就是桑蒂弄人口.
Now, some fashion designers will say, "It's only in the United States that we don't have any respect. 现在有些时尚设计师会说, 我们仅仅只在美国不受到尊重
United:adj.联合的; v.联合,团结; (unite的过去分词和过去式)
In other countries there is protection for our artful designs." 在别的国家我们巧妙的设计是 受到保护的.
artful:adj.巧妙的;狡猾的;有技巧的;欺诈的;
But if you take a look at the two other biggest markets in the world, it turns out that the protection that's offered is really ineffectual . 但是如果你看一下世界上另外的2个最大的市场, 你会发现它们提供的保护 是真的无效.
take a look at:看一看;检查; ineffectual:adj.无效的,不起作用的;徒劳无益的;n.无用的人;无一技之长者;
In Japan, for instance, which I think is the third largest market, they have a design law; it protects apparel, but the novelty standard is so high, you have to prove that your garment has never existed before, it's totally unique . 就说日本吧,我认为它是世界上第3大的市场, 他们有设计法,是保护服饰的, 但是它的新颖性标准太高, 你必须证明你的衣服在过去是不存在的. 它完全是独一无二的.
novelty:n.新奇;新奇的事物;新颖小巧而廉价的物品; standard:n.标准;水准;旗;度量衡标准;adj.标准的;合规格的;公认为优秀的; unique:adj.独特的,稀罕的;[数]唯一的;n.独一无二的人或物;
And that's sort of like the novelty standard for a U.S. patent, which fashion designers never get -- rarely get here in the states. 并且这稍微有点像 美国专利的新颖性标准, 时尚设计师从未得到过这个专利, 在这里的国家很少得到.
rarely:adv.很少地;难得;罕有地;
In the European Union , they went in the other direction. 在欧盟,他们去了另一个方向.
European Union:n.欧洲联盟;
Very low novelty standard, anybody can register anything. 非常低的新颖性标准, 任何人可以申请任何东西.
register:v.登记;注册;记录;n.登记簿;登记表;注册簿;
But even though it's the home of the fast fashion industry and you have a lot of luxury designers there, they don't register their garments , generally , and there's not a lot of litigation . 但是尽管它是快速的时尚业的发源地 而且在这里你有很多的豪华设计, 他们通常不注册他们的服饰, 还有很多的争讼.
garments:n.[服装]服装,衣着(garment的复数); generally:adv.通常;普遍地,一般地; litigation:n.诉讼;起诉;
It turns out it's because the novelty standard is too low. 原来,这是因为新颖标准太低.
A person can come in and take somebody else's gown , cut off three inches from the bottom, go to the E.U. and register it as a new, original design. 一个人可以来那走别人的袍子, 从下面剪掉3英尺, 然后去欧盟,注册一个新的 ,原始的设计.
gown:v.给…穿宽大的长袍;使穿睡衣;n.长袍;长外衣;睡衣;
So, that does not stop the knock-off artists. 所以,那个办法不能阻止抄袭的艺术家们.
If you look at the registry , actually, a lot of the registered things in the E.U. 如果你真正的去看一下注册处, 在欧洲注册处,被注册的很多东西
registry:n.注册;登记处;挂号处;船舶的国籍; registered:adj.登记过的;记名的;挂号的;v.登记;注册;(register的过去式和过去分词)
are Nike T-shirts that are almost identical to one another. 是耐克的体恤衫 而这些体恤衫几乎有是一样的.
identical:adj.同一的;完全相同的;n.完全相同的事物;
But this has not stopped Diane von Furstenberg. 但是这并没有阻止黛安 冯 弗斯滕伯格。
She is the head of the Council of Fashion Designers of America, and she has told her constituency that she is going to get copyright protection for fashion designs. 她是的 美国时装设计师协会的首席, 她告诉她的协会 她将为时装设计 获得版权保护.
Council:n.(市、郡等的)政务委员会;市政(或地方管理)服务机构; constituency:n.(选区的)选民;支持者;(一批)顾客;
The retailers have kind of quashed this notion though. 虽然零售商已经拒绝接受这个观念.
retailers:n.零售商;零售店;(retailer的复数) quashed:vt.撤销;镇压;宣布无效;捣碎; notion:n.观念;信念;理解;
I don't think the legislation is going anywhere, because they realized it is so hard to tell the difference between a pirated design and something that's just part of a global trend. 我认为这个法规不会在任何地方实行. 因为他们意识到 要说出一个非法翻版的设计 和一些只是全球潮流的一部分的东西之间的区别太难了
legislation:n.立法;法律; pirated:adj.盗版的;v.盗印,翻印;掠夺(pirate的过去分词);
Who owns a look? 谁拥有一个样板?
That is a very difficult question to answer. 那是一个非常难回答的问题.
It takes lots of lawyers and lots of court time, and the retailers decided that would be way too expensive. 它需要很多的律师还有很多的法庭时间. 而零售商们估计那样花费太高.
You know, it's not just the fashion industry that doesn't have copyright protection. 你知道的,不仅仅是时装业 不受到版权保护.
There's a bunch of other industries that don't have copyright protection, including the food industry. 还有很多别的行业也没有版权保护 包括食品业.
You cannot copyright a recipe because it's a set of instructions, it's fact, and you cannot copyright the look and feel of even the most unique dish. 你不能得到一个食谱的版权 因为它是一套说明,这是事实. 并且,你不能得到这道菜的外观和感觉的版权 即使是最独一无二的菜.
recipe:n.食谱;方法;诀窍;烹饪法;
Same with automobiles . 汽车也同样.
automobiles:n.[车辆]汽车,发动器(automobile复数);关于汽车;
It doesn't matter how wacky they look or how cool they look, you cannot copyright the sculptural design. 不管它看起来有多古怪,或者看起来有多酷, 你不能得到这个有雕刻风味的设计的版权.
wacky:adj.乖僻的,古怪的; sculptural:adj.雕刻的;雕刻般的;
It's a utilitarian article, that's why. 它是一件功利的东西,就是这个原因.
Same with furniture , it's too utilitarian. 家具也同样. 它太以实利为目的了.
furniture:n.家具;设备;储藏物;
Magic tricks , I think they're instructions, sort of like recipes : no copyright protection. 魔术,我认为他们是指示说明,有点像菜谱. 没有版权说明.
Magic tricks:n.魔术; recipes:n.烹饪法;食谱;方法;秘诀;诀窍;(recipe的复数)
Hairdos , no copyright protection. 发型,没有版权保护.
Hairdos:n.发型(hairdo的复数形式);
Open source software, these guys decided they didn't want copyright protection. 公开源代码软件,他们决定 他们不要版权保护.
source:n.来源;水源;原始资料;
They thought it'd be more innovative without it. 他们认为没有版权保护能更创新.
It's really hard to get copyright for databases. 获得数据库的版权真的很难.
Tattoo artists, they don't want it; it's not cool. 文身艺术家们,他们不想要版权,这不是很酷.
Tattoo:n.文身;连续急促的敲击;(尤指军事上的)击鼓号;v.将花纹刺在…上;给…文身;
They share their designs. 他们分享他们的设计.
Jokes, no copyright protection. 笑话,没有版权保护.
Fireworks displays , the rules of games, the smell of perfume : no. 烟花汇演. 游戏规则. 香水的味道,没有.
Fireworks:n.烟花;烟火表演;激烈的言辞;令人激动的行动;(firework的复数) displays:v.陈列; n.陈列; perfume:n.香水;香味;v.洒香水于…;使…带香味;
And some of these industries may seem sort of marginal to you, but these are the gross sales for low I.P. industries, industries with very little copyright protection, and there's the gross sales of films and books. 这些行业中可能有些看起来 对你来说无关紧要, 但是,那些是低腹腔工业 的销售总额, 就是没有版权保护的工业. 并且有销售电影和书籍的 总额。
marginal:adj.边缘的;临界的;末端的; gross:adj.总共的;粗野的;恶劣的;显而易见的;v.总共收入;n.总额,总数;
(Applause) (掌声)
It ain't pretty. 不是很漂亮.
(Applause) (掌声)
So you talk to people in the fashion industry and they're like, "Shhh! 所以你责备时装业的人 而他们会说, 嘘!
Don't tell anybody we can actually steal from each other's designs. 不要告诉任何人 我事实上能够盗取别人的设计.
It's embarrassing ." 这很尴尬.
embarrassing:adj.令人尴尬的; v.使尴尬; (embarrass的现在分词)
But you know what? It's revolutionary , and it's a model that a lot of other industries -- like the ones we just saw with the really small bars -- they might have to think about this. 但是,你知道吗?这是革命. 这是很多别的行业典范, 就像我们刚刚看见的这个非常小的酒吧, 他们可能必须考虑一下,
revolutionary:adj.革命性的;革命的;彻底变革的;n.改革者;革命者;
Because right now, those industries with a lot of copyright protection are operating in an atmosphere where it's as if they don't have any protection, and they don't know what to do. 因为,现在,那些受版权保护的行业 在好象没有保护的氛围里 运行. 并且他们不知道该怎么办.
atmosphere:n.大气;气氛;气压;风格;
When I found out that there are a whole bunch of industries that didn't have copyright protection, 当我发现有很多行业 不受到版权保护的时候,
I thought, "What exactly is the underlying logic? 我在想,这个基本逻辑究竟是什么?
underlying:adj.根本的; v.构成…的基础; (underlie的现在分词)
I want a picture." And the lawyers do not provide a picture, so I made one. 我需要一个图,而且律师不提供这个图. 所以我做了一个.
These are the two main sort of binary oppositions within the logic of copyright law. 这些是两个主要的 有点像是在版权法逻辑里面的二元对立.
binary:adj.[数]二进制的;二元的,二态的; oppositions:n.异议(opposition的复数);
It is more complex than this, but this will do. 比这更复杂,但是这个可以.
complex:adj.复杂的;合成的;n.复合体;综合设施;
First: Is something an artistic object? 首先,什么是艺术的对象?
artistic:adj.艺术的;风雅的;有美感的;
Then it deserves protection. 然后它值得保护.
deserves:v.值得;应得;应受;(deserve的第三人称单数)
Is it a utilitarian object? 它是不是功利对象?
Then no, it does not deserve protection. 这样看来,它不是,它不值得受到保护.
This is a difficult, unstable binary. 这是一个难而不稳定的二进制.
unstable:adj.不稳定的;变化莫测的;(行为、情绪)反复无常的
The other one is: Is it an idea? 另外一个是,它是不是一个信念?
Is it something that needs to freely circulate in a free society? 是不是需要 在自由的社会里自由循环?
circulate:v.循环;传播;流传;传阅;
No protection. 不受保护.
Or is it a physically fixed expression of an idea: something that somebody made and they deserve to own it for a while and make money from it? 或者,依据自然法则,它是不是一种固定的 思想表达, 某个人做的某个东西, 而且,他们值得拥有一小会儿,并且从中挣钱.
expression:n.表现,表示,表达; for a while:adv.片刻;暂时;一会儿;一时;
The problem is that digital technology has completely subverted the logic of this physically fixed, expression versus idea concept. 问题是数字技术 已经完全颠覆了 这种依据自然法则固定的表达 与思想理念.
digital:adj.数字的;手指的;n.数字;键; technology:n.技术;工艺;术语; subverted:vt.颠覆;推翻;破坏; versus:prep.对;与...相对;对抗;
Nowadays, we don't really recognize a book as something that sits on our shelf or music as something that is a physical object that we can hold. 现在, 我们不要真正认为书 就是放在书架上的东西 或者音乐就是 我们可以握住的物理对象.
recognize:v.认识;认出;辨别出;承认;意识到; physical:adj.[物]物理的;身体的;物质的;符合自然法则的;n.体格检查;
It's a digital file. 它是一个数字文件.
It is barely tethered to any sort of physical reality in our minds. 它仅仅是被系留在 我们心里的任何物理实体.
barely:adv.仅仅,勉强;几乎不;公开地;贫乏地; tethered:v.拴(牲畜);(tether的过去式和过去分词)
And these things, because we can copy and transmit them so easily, actually circulate within our culture a lot more like ideas than like physically instantiated objects. 这些东西,因为我们能够很容易的拷贝并传播, 事实上在我们的文化里循环 如其说它像依据自然法则实体化的对象 不如说它像是一种思想.
transmit:v.传送;发射;播送;传播;传染; instantiated:v.用具体例证说明;(instantiated是instantiate的过去分词);
Now, the conceptual issues are truly profound when you talk about creativity and ownership and, let me tell you, we don't want to leave this just to lawyers to figure out. 现在,概念问题真的很深刻 当你谈及创新 和所有权的时候 让我告诉你,我们不想把这个问题仅仅交给律师去解决.
conceptual:adj.概念上的; issues:n.重要议题;争论的问题;v.宣布;公布;发出;(issue的第三人称单数和复数) profound:adj.深厚的;意义深远的;渊博的;
They're smart. 他们很聪明
I'm with one. He's my boyfriend, he's okay. 我就认识一个这样的人,他还可以.
He's smart, he's smart. 他很聪明,他很聪明.
But you want an interdisciplinary team of people hashing this out, trying to figure out: What is the kind of ownership model, in a digital world, that's going to lead to the most innovation ? 但是你需要一个跨学科的团队 长时间讨论后决定, 尝试着去解决,所有权模式是什么样的, 在数字世界, 那将领导创新.
interdisciplinary:adj.各学科间的; hashing:v."hash"的现在分词; innovation:n.创新,革新;新方法;
And my suggestion is that fashion might be a really good place to start looking for a model for creative industries in the future. 我建议是 时尚可能真的是一个 为未来的创造行业 开始寻找模式的好地方.
If you want more information about this research project, please visit our website: it's ReadyToShare.org. 如果你想知道关于这项研究的更多信息, 请访问我们的网站,它是ReadyToShare.org.
And I really want to thank Veronica Jauriqui for making this very fashionable presentation . 然后我真的想感谢Veronica Jauriqui 制作了这个非常时尚的图象.
presentation:n.展示;描述,陈述;介绍;赠送;
Thank you so much. (Applause) 非常感谢