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BeccaMcCharenTran_2019S-_赞颂各种身体类型的时尚：放胆去做，不用感到抱歉_-
As fashion designers, our decisions have the power to change our culture. 身为时装设计师, 我们的决定有着改变文化的力量。
We choose who is cast in our runway shows and campaigns, and ultimately , who is celebrated and considered beautiful, and who is not. 我们决定时装秀 及广告活动上台的人选, 决定谁最终会被赞颂、被认定为美丽, 而谁不会。
runway:n.跑道;河床;滑道; ultimately:adv.最终;最后;归根结底;终究;
Having this platform is a responsibility. 拥有这个平台是一种责任。
platform:n.平台; v.把…放在台上[放在高处;
One that can be utilized to exclude people or to empower others. 它能够被用来排挤人, 或用来捧人。
utilized:adj.被利用的;v.利用(utilize的过去分词); exclude:v.不包括;不放在考虑之列;防止…进入;阻止…参加; empower:vt.授权,允许;使能够;
Growing up, I was obsessed with fashion. 我在成长过程中就很迷恋时尚。
obsessed:v.使痴迷;使迷恋;使着迷;(obsess的过去式和过去分词)
I pored over all different types of fashion magazines at my local Barnes and Noble . 我在当地的巴诺书店中 熟读各种不同类型的时尚杂志。
pored:adj.有孔的;v.注视(pore的过去分词); Noble:adj.高尚的;贵族的;惰性的;宏伟的;n.贵族;
To be fashionable was to be tall, skinny , with long, shiny hair. 时尚人就是要很高、很瘦, 披着一头闪亮的长发。
fashionable:adj.流行的;时髦的;上流社会的; skinny:adj.极瘦的;干瘦的;皮包骨的;紧身的;n.(不公开的)信息;内幕消息; shiny:adj.闪亮的;光亮的;反光的;有光泽的;
That's what I saw as the ideal, and it was reinforced everywhere I looked. 那是我心中理想时尚的概念。 看得越多,我就越确信这一点。
reinforced:adj.加固的;加强的;加筋的;v.加强;增援;(reinforce的过去式和过去分词)
And to be honest, it still is. 老实说,现在还是一样。
I wanted to be like the models, so I stopped eating. 我曾想当模特儿,所以我不吃东西。
It was a dark time in my life; my eating disorder consumed me. 那是我人生中的黑暗时期; 我的饮食障碍吞噬着我。
eating disorder:n.饮食功能失调(如厌食); consumed:adj.沉迷…的; v.消耗,耗费; (consume的过去分词和过去式)
All I could think about was counting every single calorie , and waking up early before school every day so I could run a few miles. 我满脑子都在斤斤计较 每一个卡路里, 每天上学前要提早起床, 才能先慢跑几英里。
calorie:n.卡;大卡;
It took me years to finally release the grip that the eating disorder had over my life. 我花了数年的时间 才终于脱离了 饮食障碍对我人生的影响。
finally:adv.终于;最终;(用于列举)最后;彻底地; release:v.释放;发射;让与;允许发表;n.释放;发布;让与; grip:n.紧握;柄;支配;握拍方式;拍柄绷带;vt.紧握;夹紧;vi.抓住;
But when it did, it freed up so much brain space to think about what I was truly passionate about. 在那之后,释放出好多脑空间 来思考我真正的热情在哪里。
passionate:adj.热情的;热烈的,激昂的;易怒的;
For so long, the fashion industry has worked hard to set an ideal of beauty that celebrates thin, young, white, cisgender , able-bodied models as the ideal. 长久以来,时尚产業很努力地 设立了一种美丽的理想标准, 赞颂纤瘦、年轻、白种、顺性别、 身体健全的模特儿, 符合这些条件才是理想的。
cisgender:个人的生理性别与其行为或其扮演的角色完全匹配; able-bodied:adj.强壮的,健全的;
It's impossible not to be bombarded with images of models that have been photoshopped to where there's not a single pore, fat roll or stretch mark in sight. 要不被一大堆修图过的模特儿 照片给轰炸是不可能的, 且修图修到中看不见 任何毛孔、肥肉、肥胖纹。
bombarded:v.轰炸(bombard的过去分词); adj.被轰击的; images:n.印象;声誉;形象;画像;雕像;(image的第三人称单数和复数) stretch:v.伸展;延伸;伸出;舒展;n.伸展;弹性;舒展;一片;adj.有弹力的;
You don't need to look hard to find examples. 随处都看到到这种例子。
This definition of beauty is damaging, dangerous and destructive , and we need to explode it immediately. 美丽的这种定义其实 具有伤害力、危险性和破坏性, 我们必须要立刻推翻它。
definition:n.定义;清晰度;(尤指词典里的词或短语的)释义;解释; destructive:adj.破坏的;毁灭性的;有害的,消极的; explode:v.爆炸;爆裂;勃然(大怒);突然发生(危险);
(Applause) （掌声）
I'm glad you agree. 我很高兴你们认同。（笑声）
(Laughter)
One of the worst things I've realized over the years is that my experience with disordered eating is not an anomaly . 最糟糕的是,这些年来我发觉 那段饮食障碍的经历并不特别,
disordered:adj.混乱的;害了病的;发狂的;失调的; anomaly:n.异常;不规则;反常事物;
In fact, it's par for the course . 事实上,这是司空见惯的现象。
par for the course:常有的事;意料之中的事;
I think there's a study that says 91 percent of women, and likely those of all gender identities , are unhappy with the way they look. 有一篇研究指出, 91% 的女性, 很可能还包括各种性别身分的人, 对他们的外貌都不满意。
identities:n.身份;本身;本体;特征;同一性;相同;(identity的复数)
It's unforgivable that we live in a society where it's normal or expected for teenagers to grow up hating themselves. 年轻女孩在讨厌自己的心态下长大, 我们的社会竟将此现象 视为常态或理所当然, 真是不可原谅。
unforgivable:adj.不可原谅的;
We've been fighting for fat acceptance and women's body autonomy since the '60s. 从 1960 年代起我们就在努力推动 接纳肥胖和女性身体自主权,
acceptance:n.验收;接受;认可;承认; autonomy:n.自治,自治权;
And there has been headway . 一直都有进展。
headway:n.前进;进步;航行速度;间隔时间;
We have plus-size models like Ashley Graham and musicians with body-positive messages, like Lizzo, breaking into the mainstream . 我们有加大尺码的模特儿, 如艾希莉葛莱汉, 以及传递身体自爱讯息的 音乐家,如莉佐, 她们打入了主流,谢天谢地。
mainstream:n.主流;
Thank God.
(Laughter) （笑声）
There's brands like Area that have released campaigns without any Photoshop retouching . 还有像 Area 这样的品牌, 使用完全不用修图的宣传照。
brands:n.品牌;烙印(brand的复数);v.加商标于;铭刻于(brand的第三人称单数); released:v.释放;使免除;已发布;(release的过去分词和过去式) retouching:n.手修;补釉;[印刷][摄]修版;v.修整;润色(retouch的ing形式);
But we're still inundated with unrealistic expectations . 但我们仍然被 不切实际的期待所淹没。
inundated:adj.洪泛的;v.淹没(inundate的过去分词); unrealistic:adj.不切实际的;不实在的; expectations:n.预料;预期;期待;希望;指望;(expectation的复数)
I love this quote by Lizzo, who said, "Body positivity only exists because body negativity is the norm ." 我很喜欢莉佐说的一句话: 「身体自爱会存在是因为 身体不自爱是一种常态。」
quote:v.引用;报价;举例说明;开价;为(企业的股份)上市;n.引用; positivity:n.积极性,确实; negativity:n.否定性;消极性; norm:n.规范;标准;定额;常态;v.规范;规定;
So how do we change the stigma around looking different or not fitting into this narrow definition of beauty? 我们要如何改变 这种汙名化的现象, 别再羞辱外表与众不同 或不符合美丽窄隘定义的人？
stigma:n.[植]柱头;耻辱;污名;烙印;特征; fitting:adj.适合的;恰当的;n.试衣;小配件,附件;v.适合,合身;试穿;(fit的现在分词) narrow:adj.狭窄的; v.使窄小; n.峡谷; (场所,物品等的)狭窄部分;
I believe it's by celebrating beauty in all different forms, bold and unapologetically . 我相信,做法就是赞颂 各种不同形式的美丽, 大胆且不用觉得抱歉。
bold:adj.大胆的,英勇的;黑体的;厚颜无耻的;险峻的; unapologetically:不认错地;不道歉地;
But many fashion designers continue to reinforce this narrow definition of beauty. 但许多时尚设计师持续强化 美丽的这种狭隘定义。
From the way they are taught in school and into the real world, they drape on mannequins that are only size four, or sketch on bodies that are super stretched out and not anatomically proportioned . 从他们在学校学习的方式, 一直到真实世界, 他们装扮的模特儿假人 尺码都只有四号, 时尚设计图的素描 都把身体拉长得 不符合人体正常比例。
drape:vt.用布帘覆盖;使呈褶裥状;vi.成褶皱状垂下;n.窗帘;褶裥; mannequins:n.模特儿;人体模型(mannequin的复数); sketch:n.素描;草图;速写;概述;v.概述;简述;画素描;画速写; stretched:v.拉长;撑大;有弹性(或弹力);拉紧;(stretch的过去式和过去分词) anatomically:adv.结构上;解剖学上; proportioned:adj.相称的;成比例的;v.使成比例;分配(proportion的过去分词);
Different-size bodies aren't taken into account during the design process . 在设计过程中,不同尺码的 体型没有被纳入考量, 想都没有想过。
process:v.处理;加工;列队行进;n.过程,进行;方法,adj.经过特殊加工(或处理)的;
They're not thought of. 想都没有想过。
So who are these designers designing for? 所以这些设计师是为了谁在做设计？
But the conversation around exclusivity in fashion doesn't begin and end with size. 但在时尚圈中关于排他性的讨论 并不止于尺码的问题。
exclusivity:n.排外性;独占权;
It's about seeing people of all different gender expressions , different ability levels, different ages, different races and ethnicities , celebrated for their own unique beauty. 重点是要看到各种人 有不同的性别表述、 不同的能力高低、不同的年龄、 不同的种族和文化, 都能赞颂他们自己独一无二的美丽。
expressions:表达,表情(expression的复数) ethnicities:n.种族划分; unique:adj.独特的,稀罕的;[数]唯一的;n.独一无二的人或物;
In my own work as a fashion designer , 在我的时尚设计工作中,
fashion designer:n.时装设计师;
I started a brand called Chromat, and we're committed to empowering women, femmes and nonbinary #ChromatBABES, of all shapes and sizes, through perfectly fit garments for every body. 我创造了一个品牌叫 Chromat, 我们承诺要强化女人、女同性恋, 以及非二元性别的 #Chromat 宝贝, 不论体形、尺码, 每个身体都有能完全合身的服装。
committed:adj.坚信的; v.做出错事; (commit的过去分词和过去式) empowering:v.授权;给(某人)…的权力;增加(某人的)自主权;(empower的现在分词) femmes:n.女同性恋者;妻子(femme的复数形式); nonbinary:n.非二进制; garments:n.[服装]服装,衣着(garment的复数);
Swimwear has become a huge focus for me, because of the power that this single garment can have over the way people feel about themselves. 泳装已经变成了 我设计的一个主要焦点, 因为单单一件衣着就有强大的力量 足以影响人们对自己的感觉。
Swimwear:n.游泳衣;
We wanted to take our focus on celebrating all body types to a garment that's fraught with insecurity . 我们想把焦点放在一种最容易引发 对自己体型不安全感的衣着, 让我们更能欣赏各种体型。
fraught:adj.担心的,忧虑的;充满…的; insecurity:n.不安全;不牢靠;无把握;心神不定;
On our runways , you see curves , cellulite and scars worn proudly . 在我们的伸展台上,你会看到丰腴的曲线、 橘皮组织、伤疤被大方展现。
runways:n.[航]跑道(runway的复数);河床; curves:n.曲线; v.(使)沿曲线运动; (curve的第三人称单数和复数) cellulite:n.(胖女人臀腿部的)脂肪团; proudly:傲慢地
We're a runway show, yes, but we're also a celebration. 我们是伸展台时装秀, 但我们也是一场赞颂庆典。
I didn't start designing 10 years ago with the mission to change the entire industry. 十年前我开始做设计时, 并没有想改变整个产業的使命感。
mission:n.使命,任务;代表团;布道;v.派遣;向…传教;
But the models we cast at the time, who just happened to be my friends who had begged to be in my shows, were so radical to some people, and, unfortunately , still are different or strange to some, that it became a huge part of what we're known for. 但当时我们安排的模特儿 刚好是我的朋友, 她们请求要参与走秀, 某些人当时觉得这种安排很极端, 不幸的是,现在仍有些人 觉得她们很奇怪, 但我们的与众不同 已成了我们知名之处。
radical:n.自由基;激进分子;游离基;adj.根本的;彻底的;完全的;全新的; unfortunately:adv.不幸地;
However, inclusivity means nothing if it's only surface level. 然而,包容如果只有做表面, 就一点意义也没有。
inclusivity:n.包容性;
Behind the scenes , from the photographer, to the casting director, to the interns , who is making the decisions behind the scenes is just as important. 在幕后, 从摄影师到选角导演, 到实习生, 在幕后做决策的人 也都同等重要。
Behind the scenes:adj.幕后的; interns:n.实习生(intern的复数);同住者;v.做实习生;扣留;软禁(intern的三单形式);
It's imperative to include diverse decision-makers in the process, and it's always better to collaborate with different communities , rather than trying to speak for them. 当务之急是让多样化的决策者参与, 通常,和不同的族群共同合作设计, 好过由我们代替他们发声。
imperative:adj.重要紧急的; n.重要紧急的事; diverse:adj.不同的;多种多样的;变化多的; collaborate:vi.合作;勾结,通敌; communities:n.社区;社会;团体;共有(community的复数) speak for:要求得到;代表…讲话;
And this is an important piece of the puzzle that many young designers may not think about when they're first starting their careers , but hiring a plus-size or a transgender photographer, or a woman of color as your casting director, or a black makeup artist -- hey, Fatima Thomas -- who intimately understands how important it is to be able to work with all skin tones : 我们的工作中有很重要的一环, 许多年轻设计师在刚开始 职涯时可能不会想到: 雇用一名加大尺码或变性摄影师, 雇用一名加大尺码或变性摄影师, 或有色人种的女性选角导演, 或黑人化妆师 ······ 嘿,法蒂玛汤玛斯！ 他们能非常切身地了解, 能处理各种皮肤色调有多么重要,
puzzle:n.谜;疑问;智力游戏;不解之谜;v.迷惑;使困惑; careers:n.职业(career的复数);事业;职业生涯;v.全速前进(career的三单形式); transgender:n.跨性别;跨性别者; makeup artist:化妆师; Fatima:n.法蒂玛(穆罕默德的女儿); intimately:adv.熟悉地;亲切地;私下地; tones:n.声调;基本音色(tone的复数);v.调节音调(tone的第三人称单数);
it's essential to creating a holistically inclusive output , like this one. 因为如此才能够创造出 适合各种人的产物, 像是这件作品。
essential:n.要点;要素;实质;必需品;adj.完全必要的;必不可少的;极其重要的;本质的; holistically:整体论地; inclusive:adj.包括的,包含的; output:n.(人、机器、机构的)产量;输出;输出功率;输出量;v.输出;
As a fashion designers that do a lot of swim, we wanted to rewrite the rules around having a bikini body. 身为常常游泳的时尚设计师, 我们想要重写比基尼身材的规则。
bikini:n.比基尼泳装;大爆炸;
So we cast a team of babe guards to enforce guidelines around inclusion and acceptance at the pool. 所以我们安排了一组 女子救生员当模特儿, 来强化游泳池中 包容和接纳的指导方针。
enforce:v.强制执行;强迫;迫使; guidelines:n.指导方针;参考; inclusion:n.包含;内含物;
Instead of "no diving " and "no running," 不要用「禁止潜水」 及「禁止奔跑」的标志,
diving:n.潜水;跳水;跳水运动;v.下潜;跳水;潜水;(dive的现在分词)
how about "celebrate cellulite," 换成「赞颂橘皮组织」、
'"body policing prohibited ," 「禁止体型警察」,
prohibited:v.禁止(prohibit的过去分词形式);adj.被禁止的;
and " intolerance not tolerated ." 「拒绝包容不包容的行为」。
intolerance:n.(尤指对别人的意见)不宽容;偏狭; tolerated:v.容许;忍受;包容;有耐受性;(tolerate的过去式和过去分词)
And this was enforced by babe guards Mama Cax, Denise Bidot, 推行这项活动的女子救生员包括: 玛玛卡克斯、丹妮丝毕多、
enforced:adj.强迫的;强制性的;v.强制执行;迫使;(enforce的过去分词和过去式)
Geena Rocero, Ericka Hart and Emme, all activists in their own right. 吉娜罗瑟洛、艾瑞卡哈特,及艾美。 她们都是时尚群众运动家。
I've always felt it was important to show a range of different bodies in our runway shows and campaigns. 我总觉得在时装秀及广告活动中 展示一系列不同的身体是很重要的。
But it actually wasn't until recently that we were able to expand our size range in a major way. 但一直到最近, 我们才有办法大幅扩展尺码的范围。
recently:adv.最近;新近; expand:v.扩张;使膨胀;详述;发展;张开,展开;
We first launched our curve collection five years ago; we were so excited. 我们五年前初次推出丰腴曲线系列, 当时我们好兴奋。
launched:v.发射;发起;开展;开始;(launch的过去式和过去分词)
But when it launched, it fell flat. 但推出时,却彻底失败。
Nobody was interested. 没有人感兴趣。
None of our department stores stocked above a size large, and if they did, it was somewhere else in the building entirely. 没有百货公司进 L 以上的尺码, 就算有,也是存放在 大楼里不同的地方。
stocked:v.存货;贮备,贮存(食物、书籍等)(stock的过去分词和过去式)
In fact, one time our sales team said, "You know, it's so cool you have trans models and curve models on the runway -- 事实上,有次我们的業务团队说: 「你把变性、丰腴的模特儿 放在伸展台上是件很酷的事,
I love what you're doing. 我很喜欢你做的事。
But when the buyers come in to see the collection for market, they want to be sold a dream, they want to see something that they aspire to be." 但当买家过来看上市的系列时, 他们想买的是一个梦想, 他们想看到自己渴望成为的形象。」
buyers:n.[贸易]买主;买方市场;采购者;购货者(buyer的复数); aspire:v.渴望(成就);有志(成为);
Implying that our models weren't that. 暗指我们的模特儿 不是他们渴望的形象。
Implying:v.意味;暗示;隐含;(imply的现在分词)
But I've realized it's so much more important to open up this dream to more people. 但我了解到,更重要的 是要把这个梦想开放给更多人。
I want the consumer to know that it's not your body that needs to change -- it's the clothes. 我希望消费者知道, 要改变的不是你的身体, 是衣服。
consumer:n.[经]消费者;[生,生态]消费者;
(Applause) （掌声）
There needs to be more fashion options at all sizes and in all retailers . 我们需要有更多 时尚选择和所有尺码,
options:n.选择; v.得到或获准进行选择; (option的三单形式) retailers:n.零售商;零售店;(retailer的复数)
So finally, in 2018, 所以终于在 2018 年,
Nordstrom actually placed an order up to 3X. 诺德斯特龙百货公司下单, 进货最大尺寸是 3X。
And this was a huge game changer for us to have a major retailer invest in adding these units, so we could go to the factory -- now we go up to 4X, which is about a size 32. 有大型零售商投资增加这些品项, 对我们来说是个很大的助力。 于是我们就能交给工厂做。 现在我们有 4X 的尺码, 大约是 32 号。
changer:n.转换开关装置;改变者(change的名词形式); invest:v.投资;(把资金)投入;投入(时间、精力等);授予;
Having that investment helped us to change and realign our entire design process. 有那样的投资, 让我们能够革新和重新调整 整个设计过程。
investment:n.投资;投入;封锁; realign:vi.重新排列;再结盟;改组;重组;
We now have different-sized bodies to sketch and drape on in the studio . 现在我们在工作室里有 不同尺码的体型供素描及装扮。
studio:n.工作室;[广播][电视]演播室;画室;电影制片厂;
And if more fashion schools taught these skills, more designers would have the ability to design for all bodies. 若有更多时尚学校能教这些技能, 就会有更多设计师有能力 为各种体型做设计。
(Applause) （掌声）
So as fashion designers, it's our job to utilize our platform to explode this narrow and restrictive definition of beauty. 所以身为时尚设计师, 来推翻对美丽所下的狭隘定义。
My goal is that one day, teenagers growing up don't feel the same pressure that I did to conform . 我的目标是,有一天, 年轻女孩成长过程不必再感受到 我当初那种必须顺应他人的压力。
conform:v.遵守;相一致;顺从;相符合;
And I hope that our work contributes to the fashion industry's opening up to celebrate many different identities. 我希望我们的努力 能促成时尚产業更开放, 去赞颂许多不同的身份。
contributes:[图情]投稿;[经]捐助;[经]捐献(contribute的第三人称单数); opening up:n.解禁;开放;供开发;启用;
Thank you. 谢谢。
(Applause and cheers) （掌声及欢呼）